If I dropped to much into the pan, dump it start over, under I'd trickle it up. I would drop a pinch, a pinch being powder from a bowl pinched between my thumb and index finger. It was a bit slow and tedious getting the powder charge right. Loading for it won't be a problem, I have what I need except for some way to throw those tiny charges.Been a long time, more years than I want to think about. Looks like it'll be a fun little toy when I get to it. Looking at it, it may not be as old as I thought either as it has some kind of transfer bar in it, the hammer won't push the firing pin where it would hit the primer unless the trigger is pulled all the way back.įor the price, I'm not out much, but I don't want to blow it up. What kind of loads would work in this OK? I'm guessing about 1.5 grain of Bullseye? I understand top breaks are inherently weaker, but this one is as strong as it ever was I'm sure. 32 short brass stashed away someplace in all my stuff and also a mold for a light bullet designed for the. Happenned on a pretty nice blued one today with no pitting, good grips and bore for $75. Usually shops want upwards of $200 for ones that have broken grips, pitting, nickel plating peeling etc. 32s and have been eyeballing these when they turn up. If the hammer is c0cked, you will have hell getting the mainspring back in.I must admit to having a thing for top break revolvers and never had one. Make sure the hammer is in the 'at rest' or fired position when you replace the mainspring. Be careful when you replace the mainspring. The extractor, ejecor rod and cylinder should be one assembly if it is like my old gun. Cylinder shoud come off by unscrewing it to the left. If ya don't get it in right, the ejector won't work. If ya do take it off be carful with the sisk that controls the ejector. If ya just get the trigger guard off and the trigger return spring is broken, that is as far as ya really have to go.Īs far as taking off the top break assembly. Mine had a small plate on top of the frame that came off after drifting atiny pin out, but the hammer was too big tocome out of it. Cant remember if it came out the bottom of the grip or trigger area. Hammer would be the last thing out after removing the hammer screw. It has no hammer to hit if it is dropped. Can't remember if that model had the 'hammer the hammer transfer bar in it like the external hammer guns did. If you do, the hand and the hand spring will come out also. You will not have to take out the pin that holds the trigger/cylinder stop unless you are having other problems. it can be replaced at that point and the gun reassembled. My old gun had the broken piece still in it. You should be able to see the trigger return spring at the front end of the trigger guard after the guard is removed. I am sure it will be a hell of alot harder on the small frame. With the gun upside down, drift them out with a small punch. IIRC, there are 2 pins holding the trigger quard. Slide it out the side at the bottom of the grip noting where it goes at the top where the hammer has a place for it. It should have a leaf type instead of coil spring. If they won't fix it and ya want to try the IJ, Remove the grips. I just got alot slower at doing it with the freaking glaucoma. I just got use to fixing stuff I got at the shows as quickly as I could to turn them over. Bore and cylinders are sharp with no rust or pitting. Got this IJ hammer model in as boot in a swap. I have picked up a few of the IJs and H&Rs in the past year. Just has to have what ya need in it and ya have some spares. By the tire you pay shipping and new parts cost, you may get all ya need front another gun for less bucks. If you can not find a part, you may try buying a whole gun off auction or at a gunshow to get parts. I eventually got tired of fixing stuff on it and got a J frame snub. I gas welded it up and cut new notches by hand using a file. I wore out the rachet on the extractor star later and could not get one. I can't remember for sure, but it may have been held in place by a screw held under the front end of the trigger guard. The other end went in a notch at the front of the trigger. IIRC, it was wedged under the front end of the trigger guard and the frame. They did not have the trigger spring so I mage one out of some thin spring steel. I managed to find a new barrel for it at Numrich. Trigger spring broke on it and he quit using it in the 60's. It had been my dad's BUG to an Official Police in the 50s. I inherited one hammerless such as yours, but in the larger frame, 5 shot. If the trigger can not be manually returned forward, there are other problems. I am assuming the trigger does return forward if you push it and is not locked in the rear position? If it returns, then it is as PshootR said, it just needs a trigger teturn spring.
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